Introduction: A Hidden Fossil Treasure on Valentia Island
At the southwest tip of Ireland, far off the typical tourist route, lies the beautiful island of Valentia. With only a few small roads and two small towns, it remains one of the hidden gems of Ireland. It is also a hidden gem of paleontology.
Along a small stretch of rocky shoreline on this island are numerous shallow depressions in the rock. They are difficult to see in poor lighting, but near sunrise and sunset, when shadows are cast across the surface, the depressions suddenly become visible. Most visitors walk right past them without noticing anything unusual. Even those who stop to look are often disappointed. I have heard people say, "It is just a rock," or "Those do not look like footprints."
However, to anyone interested in paleontology, these small depressions are not ordinary at all. They are some of the most important fossils on Earth.
The Devonian Tetrapod Trackway on Valentia Island
These small depressions in the rock form the famous Valentia Island tetrapod trackway from the Devonian Period. This site preserves one of the oldest and longest tetrapod trackways in the world. These trace fossils represent a major turning point in evolution because they are among the earliest evidence of an animal walking on land. They record a time when vertebrates were just beginning to move out of the water and explore life on land.
The trackway is preserved on a ripple-marked surface that formed in soft mud during a flooding event. Paleontologists believe the tracks were made by an early tetrapod, a four-limbed vertebrate, walking either in very shallow water or across freshly exposed mud. The excellent preservation of the ripple marks shows that the animal walked across the surface shortly after the sediment was deposited.
At least five separate trackways have been identified at this site, with the longest reaching an incredible 15 meters in length. This makes it the longest known early tetrapod trackway ever discovered. The footprints appear as overlapping pairs of impressions, sometimes accompanied by tail or body drag marks. Based on the size and spacing of the footprints, the animal that made them was probably about 1 meter long.
The tracks were discovered in the early 1990s in the Valentia Slate Formation by Swiss graduate student Iwan Stossel. Detailed studies later showed that the trackway dates to the Givetian to Frasnian stages of the Devonian Period, approximately 383 to 388 million years ago. This makes the Valentia trackway one of the oldest known examples of a walking tetrapod anywhere in the world.
Other Early Devonian Tetrapod Trackways Around the World
Only a small number of very early tetrapod trackways have ever been discovered. In addition to the Valentia Island trackway in Ireland, there are three other important early sites: Tarbat Ness in Scotland, and the Genoa River and Glen Isla trackways in Australia. Most of these trackways are much shorter and not as well preserved as the Valentia trackway, but they are still extremely important because they provide evidence of some of the earliest walking animals on Earth. Below is a brief description of the other three sites.
Tarbat Ness Trackway - Scotland
The Tarbat Ness trackway is a short trackway that includes a set of complete footprints and a small fragment of another track. This site is especially interesting because the rock surface also contains raindrop impressions, which means the tracks were made above water rather than underwater. The age of the trackway is thought to fall somewhere between the Givetian stage of the Devonian Period and the Tournaisian stage of the Carboniferous Period, approximately 388 to 346 million years old.
Genoa River Trackway - Australia
At least two trackways have been discovered close together along the Genoa River in New South Wales, Australia. These trackways are probably Famennian in age, which places them in the Late Devonian, about 359 to 372 million years old. The first trackway is about 1.1 meters long and contains well-preserved footprints. The second trackway is shorter and less well preserved, but it shows clear belly or tail drag marks.
Glen Isla Trackway - Australia
The Glen Isla trackway was discovered in Victoria, Australia. Unfortunately, it was found on a large paving stone, so the exact location and age of the original rock layer are uncertain. The sandstone slab does contain ripple marks, and the trackway preserved on it is about 1.5 meters long. Unlike some of the other early trackways, this one does not show any tail or belly drag marks.
Directions to the Trackway in Valentia, Ireland
Google Map of the the trackway on Valentia Island
Why the Valentia Island Tetrapod Trackway Is So Important
One of the most important moments in vertebrate evolution was the transition from life in the water to life on land. It is a period that is difficult to truly imagine because the time involved is so vast. However, seeing an actual tetrapod trackway that is more than 300 million years old makes this distant part of Earths history feel real. These footprints are not just fossils. They are direct evidence of one of the first animals to walk on land.
If you ever find yourself on the beautiful island of Valentia, the trackway is not difficult to locate. Head toward Chapeltown in the center of the island. From there, take the road heading north toward Geokaun View and continue toward the lighthouse and radio station. Eventually the road will split. Stay toward the radio station. Just before you reach it, you will see a small sign that reads "Tetrapod Car Park." Park there and walk down the hill toward the rocky shoreline. In just a few minutes, you will be standing beside one of the oldest tetrapod trackways in the world.
There are interpretive signs at the site, and the trackway itself is protected by ropes to prevent damage from visitors walking on it. Please stay behind the ropes so these rare Devonian footprints can be preserved for future generations.
The Author taking a photo of the Tetrapod Trackway.
On a side note, if you are hiking on Valentia, or anywhere in Ireland, don't fall in the old Ha-ha walls! You can break a leg!
Recommended Books on Tetrapod Evolution / Valentina Island:
References
Stossel, Iwan & Williams, Edward & Higgs, K. (2016). Ichnology and depositional environment of the Middle Devonian Valentia Island tetrapod trackways, southwest Ireland. Palaeogeography, Palaeoclimatology, Palaeoecology. 462. 10.1016/j.palaeo.2016.08.033.


